I am currently offering the following helmet restoration services:
Complete helmet repaint: I will repaint your WWI or WWII shell and split-pins in any color/texture that I offer. I can also supply decal(s) for an extra $10 or you may provide me with your own.
Price: $65.00+ $15.00 return postage
Camouflage: I can reproduce almost any camouflage pattern used by the German forces during WWI or WWII. You may pick from one of the example in my helmet gallery or send me photos of one you’d like re-produced. Although I can not guarantee it will be identical, I will be able to get it pretty close. I also offer the thick sand-grit or Zimmerit textured finish at request.
Price: $75
Complete War-Time Helmet Rebuild: This package includes stripping of all old paint and primers from your helmet and repainting the helmet shell in any color/texture I offer. I will install a new war-time reproduction liner and steel split-pins. I will also install a new reproduction chinstrap with the date of choice. I can apply your own decal(s) if you’d like or I can apply my own for an extra $10 your choice. This package also includes M16 and M17 WWI German and Austrian helmets, for M18 and M18 cut-outs please add $25
Price: $150.00 + $15.00 return postage, for Camouflage please add and extra $10
Pre-war/ Early War Helmet Re-build: For those of you who want your M18 or M35 to be 100% correct I am currently offering a pre-war/early war helmet re-build. The packages comes with brass alloy split pins, aluminum alloy 1938 dated reproduction liner, and your choice of non-marked or 1938 or 1939 dated chinstrap
Price: $165.00 + $15.00 return postage
Transitional helmet re-build: I am currently the only vender offering this option. I can re-build your M16, M18, M18 cut-out or Austrian helmet with a M1927 liner and chinstrap. The helmet can be painted Reichswehr light green or pre-war apple green. Paint can be sprayed or hand painted. Keep in mind most original transitional helmet were hand painted not sprayed. For an extra $10 I can hand paint your choice of state shield onto the shell as was usually done during the Weimar era, or I can apply WWII era decals.
Price: $175.00 + $15.00 return postage
Other Options:
Ink inspectors dome Stamp, 1937, 1938, 1939 and individual factory stamps are available: $5
Name and or ID number hand painted in Sütterlin, Latin Script or Cyrillic (for Russian, Belarusian or Ukrainian volunteers) or: $5
Heavy gauge Chicken-wire basket full or half, five or 6 twist: $65
Rubber band: $5
Aged Iron wire wrap: $25
Aging: Do you want your helmet to have that “been there look”? I can age the paint, add chips, rust, blackened steel, smoke and water damage, fade and yellow the decals, add patina. The liner and chinstrap can be likewise aged to match the worn paint. Please be specific when telling me what you are looking for. Whether you’re looking for a 60+ year old relic to put on your shelf or the “just off the battlefield look” for reenacting I can make that happen. If this is the look you’re going for just add $35
Generally helmet restoration take anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks to complete. Some of the more complicated paint scheme and aging take time and can not be rushed. The paint I use is oil based enamel and is very similar to what the Germans used during the war. The paint takes about 2 weeks to completely cure. The paint may look dry after a weeks but care should still be taken till the paint cures completely.
When sending me your helmet, please remove the liner and split pins. If the split pins are original they often tend to be weak and may break. I am not responsible for any broken pins. I am very gentle with them when I install the liners but still sometimes they are ready to break after 60+ years of being installed and re-installed. If your original pins do break I will offer you a set of my museum quality split pins at cost.
I feel it necessary to make this clear. I only restore what you send me. If the helmet has rust pits or dents when I get it, it will still have them when I return the helmet. I am not set up to do that sort of repair work. I am not a miracle worker. I have been known to do some amazing thing with some less then perfect helmets but if you send me a rust bucket that was dug from the Demjansk pocket and you expect it to look factory fresh when I’m done with it. I am very sorry, but you will be disappointed. feel it necessary to make this clear. I only restore what you send me. If the helmet has rust pits or dents when I get it, it will still have them when I return the helmet. I am not set up to do that sort of repair work. I am not a miracle worker. I have been known to do some amazing thing with some less then perfect helmets but if you send me a rust bucket that was dug from the Demjansk pocket and you expect it to look factory fresh when I’m done with it. I am very sorry, but you will be disappointed.
Gas Mask Canisters: $35 can be painted pre-war/ early war field gray or late war field gray. For any camo (i.e. DAK, Italy, and Normandy etc.) please add $10
Mess Tins: $25 can be painted pre-war/ early war field gray or late war field gray. For any camo (i.e. DAK, Italy, and Normandy etc.) please add $10
Belt buckles: $5 for those of you who bought one of those strange green painted repro German belt buckles from one of the many WWII venders. I can strip the buckle and repaint it the correct shade of field gray or tropical tan.
FYI
For those needing Imperial Russian WWI, French WWI or WWII, British WWI or WWII, Italian WWI or WWII or Japanese WWII or American WWI helmets restored please e-mail me or quote. I do in fact have paint for these helmets but I do not stock the liner or chinstraps. I can get them on request.
HELMET RESTORATION SERVICES TERMS;
Your helmet will be well-treated while in my care, I will not roll it down the street, use it for target practice or let my Wife pawn it. It will be correctly restored and promptly returned.
Generally helmet restoration take anywhere from 1 to 4 weeks to complete. Some of the more complicated paint scheme and ageing take time and can not be rushed. The paint I use is oil based enamel and is very similar to what the Germans used during the war. The paint takes about 2 weeks to completely cure. The paint may look dry after a weeks but care should still be taken till the paint cures completely.
When sending me your helmet, please remove the liner and split pins. If the split pins are original they often tend to be weak and tend to break. I am not responsible for any broken pins. I am very gentle with them when I install the liners but still sometimes they are ready to break after 60+ years of being installed and re-installed. If your original pins do break I will offer you a set of my museum quality split pins for cost.
I feel it necessary to make this clear. I only restore what you send me. If the helmet has rust pits or dents when I get it, it will still have them when I return the helmet. I am not set up to do that sort of repair work. I am not a miracle worker. I have been known to do some amazing thing with some less then perfect helmets but if you send me a rust bucket that was dug from the Demjansk pocket and you expect it to look factory fresh when I’m done with it. I am very sorry, but you will be disappointed.